No more. I just want to enjoy the simple act of surfing, being in amongst the beauty of the nature and just having the time and space to take it all in. The space to ride waves, try different boards, attempt new things and just surf, without any of the BS.
With this in mind I am determined to make my vision of surfing utopia a reality. I know it is possible, with a bit of planning and selective sessions I can get away from the hoards. And when I do, I will keep it a secret, for I do not want my peaceful little corner of the surfing world to be spoiled, again.
|Photo credit: Mike Coots, via The Inertia.|