The friend I am referring to used to be very close to me, I grew up with them, they were there when times got tough and they inspired me. Sadly, in recent times I have neglected them. Something that I now regret. For having rediscovered just who special they are, I wish I had never let things drift as much as they had done.
This afternoon, while enjoying quiet time at work I clicked on Surfer Magazine. I cannot remember the last time I did this, but today I am so glad that I did. I was instantly mesmerised by the photography and absorbed in the features. Although I had been absent for a while, it didn't take long at all to become fully acquainted again.
Also, having been a little bit disillusioned with the modern surfing world of late, I am thrilled to realise that this has now been dispelled, to a degree at least. I was quickly reminded why I love surfing as much as I do, and that this is my culture, my world. I got lost in the site for a time there, and came away feeling wholly contented, my sense of identity reinforced, and the notion of how and why I fit within the surfing world restored.
They say that sometimes it takes a period of absence to make you realise just how much you love something. Based on the experience I had today, I am not going to be a stranger again.
|This is why I love it. Reef McIntosh, Off The Wall. Photo Zak Noyle|