Friday, 26 June 2015
I saw this photo on the Surfer Magazine site recently, and it really struck a chord with me. For this is one beautiful wave, I love the colours, deep blue fading to emerald green, the way in which it is back lit by the sun, but most of all I like that it is a wave that I can relate to. I could surf it.
It is also empty, untouched. This one went through un ridden. This heightens its beauty, and further fuels the imagination. I am imagining riding it, on my backhand, going off the bottom, off the top, flying down the line super charged.
Just looking at this picture gives me immense stoke, in fact if I could surf waves like that every day, or even most days, sans crowds I would be a happy chap.
This is a clip from a film that helped define me in terms of my surfing life. For a long time it alluded me, searches proved fruitless and the VHS copy I had has lone since been lent out to a friend, never to be returned. Finding it was difficult, partly because I thought it was called something else entirely, but on hearing Bury Me by The Smashing Pumpkins on the radio recently, I made another search. And guess what?..
This film was from the Momentum era, a turning point in surfing, which paved the way for a whole style and approach. This was power surfing taken up to the next level, these guys were doing airs, in pretty small shore break surf, the type of waves that I grew up surfing. It smacked me around the chops and made me alter my own surfing.
This particular clip also introduced me to the Smashing Pumpkins, a band that have waned a bit in recent times (in my opinion) but for a while in the 90's they turned out some amazing songs. In fact I can't hear Bury Me without thinking of this clip, and those airs.