Carving Nostalgia

At the risk of sounding horribly clichéd, there is nothing that can match the feeling of riding a wave, I mean really riding a wave.  It's a feeling that comes alive when I drop into a decent wave, large or small it doesn't matter, but it is the sense of doing something that precious few can do, less still really appreciate. I love that sense of being committed to the wave that I get when the speed at which you are paddling, matches the forward motion of the wave, and it has you. That feeling of anticipation, trepidation, excitement and wonder all rolled into one.  Looking down the line to and taking a quick snap shot in and in an instant planning a route, taking the line that will allow for the most speed and the best moves, all of this information is computed in that instant just at the point of take off, before the ride begins. Once taken off, the whole plan is executed and the only thing that I am focusing on is the wave ahead of me, nothi...

After what seems like the longest, wettest and frankly the most miserable of winters, finally things are looking up.  The evenings are now longer, the air warmer and things seem just that little bit more calm than they have done for an awful long time.  I love this time of year, when nature comes too after having been dormant for the winter months.  The beaches are friendly places again, the sea is that little bit warmer and the anticipation of what the summer months have in store is fixed firmly in my mind. As always, I am hoping for a long spell of good swells, warm weather and lots of sunshine, but living on the far South Western tip of the UK as I do, you never can tell!  One thing is for certain, and that is I am going to make the most of each and every day that comes my way, getting in the water and out in the country is going to be of the upmost importance this year.  For these are the main reasons for me choosing to live where I do. It might ...