Sliding Across Waves

At the risk of sounding horribly clichéd, there is nothing that can match the feeling of riding a wave, I mean really riding a wave.  It's a feeling that comes alive when I drop into a decent wave, large or small it doesn't matter, but it is the sense of doing something that precious few can do, less still really appreciate.

I love that sense of being committed to the wave that I get when the speed at which you are paddling, matches the forward motion of the wave, and it has you. That feeling of anticipation, trepidation, excitement and wonder all rolled into one.  Looking down the line to and taking a quick snap shot in and in an instant planning a route, taking the line that will allow for the most speed and the best moves, all of this information is computed in that instant just at the point of take off, before the ride begins.

Once taken off, the whole plan is executed and the only thing that I am focusing on is the wave ahead of me, nothing else matters other than the ride.  Looking up at the wall of water, the wound of the board as it slides across the surface, the feeling of motion, being propelled by the wave alone, all contribute to the overall feeling.  But it's that butterfly in the tummy, pure excitement that surfing gives me which makes it truly special.  This is heightened with every decent turn, with each critical move and from the sheer speed at which it all happens.  That is what I strive for, that is the thing that I feel when I dream about surfing, and if I think about some of the best waves of my surfing life, I can feel at least part of the feeling through re living the experience, of which there are many.  But the best part, is that I get to feel this way pretty much every time I go surfing. Catching a decent wave and riding it to my best ability is a feeling that is timeless.  Longboarding, shortboarding, big waves or small, that sensation of doing it, and doing it well is why I still get the buzz that I do from sliding across the face of waves.

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