Getting Heavy.
After a run of fun but slightly mediocre surfs, last weekend yielded something that I had been craving for quite some time. Fast, racy, heavy shore break. Praa Sands style! I love surfing here in these conditions, it was the beach where I grew up, as such I have put enough time in over the years so that I have got it more or less wired. Because it was the place where I predominantly surfed during my formative years, it no doubt shaped my style and approach towards surfing. I have surfed it a lot throughout my surfing life, taking a fair few knocks in the sand along the way, broken some lovely boards too, but I do love these waves. And I am truly in my element when the tide gets high and things get a bit heavy! This past Saturday as soon as I saw what was happening, that shift from the outside banks to the ones just below the high tide line, I knew that I was in for a treat. And I realised that...