Surfing history, brought alive.
I have had a deep fascination with surf photography for a number of years. A really great shot which captures a moment perfectly will spark my imagination and take me to a different place, or an entirely different time.
There are a number of photographers, past and present, who's work I really admire and never tire of looking at. But I thought I would note my appreciation of the photography of Ron Stoner, Ron Church and Leroy Grannis. Each of these guys were responsible for capturing the surfing experience so perfectly, both in and out of the water.
Many of their photographs are so incredibly simple and yet they manage to portray surf culture in such a way that it is if the photographs were staged. Although, on close inspection you can see that this was not the case, rather they all had an incredible eye for photography, knew surfing, had a deep understanding of the ocean, and a love for all of these things. These incredible attributes ensured that they could perfectly encapsulate a moment in time that would otherwise have been missed, thus preserving these nuggets of surf culture for people like me to appreciate all these years later.
These guys were at the top of their game during the era before the surfing boom, that very small window of time before things went bananas and surfing became an industry and everyone wanted to be a 'surfer'. The simplicity and purity of the scene at this time is visible throughout their body of work. Capturing some of the most legendary surfers from an age that has long gone, these guys have provided the surfing world with some of the most iconic images that there are.
Fortunately for me, my partner and friends know what I like and get good gifts, as a result I have obtained quite a collection of books that are dedicated to the work of Mr.Stoner, Mr.Church and Mr.Grannis. Whenever my stoke flags a little bit and I become disillusioned with surfing and I need some real inspiration, I reach for one of these books. On doing so I immediately become retuned with what surfing is all about, the beauty, the fun and the lifestyle that I really relate to and connect with in a big way.
There are a number of photographers, past and present, who's work I really admire and never tire of looking at. But I thought I would note my appreciation of the photography of Ron Stoner, Ron Church and Leroy Grannis. Each of these guys were responsible for capturing the surfing experience so perfectly, both in and out of the water.
Many of their photographs are so incredibly simple and yet they manage to portray surf culture in such a way that it is if the photographs were staged. Although, on close inspection you can see that this was not the case, rather they all had an incredible eye for photography, knew surfing, had a deep understanding of the ocean, and a love for all of these things. These incredible attributes ensured that they could perfectly encapsulate a moment in time that would otherwise have been missed, thus preserving these nuggets of surf culture for people like me to appreciate all these years later.
These guys were at the top of their game during the era before the surfing boom, that very small window of time before things went bananas and surfing became an industry and everyone wanted to be a 'surfer'. The simplicity and purity of the scene at this time is visible throughout their body of work. Capturing some of the most legendary surfers from an age that has long gone, these guys have provided the surfing world with some of the most iconic images that there are.
Fortunately for me, my partner and friends know what I like and get good gifts, as a result I have obtained quite a collection of books that are dedicated to the work of Mr.Stoner, Mr.Church and Mr.Grannis. Whenever my stoke flags a little bit and I become disillusioned with surfing and I need some real inspiration, I reach for one of these books. On doing so I immediately become retuned with what surfing is all about, the beauty, the fun and the lifestyle that I really relate to and connect with in a big way.
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| Photos: Surfer Magazine |
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| Ron Stoner, self portrait |
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| Phil Edwards, by Ron Church |
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| Ron Church |
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| Leroy Grannis |
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