Toes On The Nose
As I grow older I find that I am drawn to the more
historical elements of surfing culture more and more.
By this I mean the early nineteen sixties in particular. I am referring to the era that can be defined
as being very Southern Californian in essence, featuring the styles and feeling
of this time, both in and out of the water. The colours, designs and general aesthetic of the period is particularly appealing to me. For I love the hibiscus prints, as well as the graphics that featured on the boards when bright colours, clean designs and vibrant graphics were the characteristics of the day.
At the risk of sounding slightly clichéd, the aloha spirit seemed to be very prevalent, and the surfing scene was built upon the notion of riding waves for the fun of it, above all else. Based on my understanding, which I think is an accurate, albeit slightly romanticized view point that has been gained from reading many books and magazine articles of the time. Surfing in the early 1960's was a lot more authentic than it became in latter years, for this was a time that was yet to see mass consumerism where (sub)cultures were taken from their rightful owners, re modeled, packaged and then sold to the masses as a lifestyle accessory. Riding waves was (and for me still is) something that is natural, free and serves as a means of escaping the daily trials and tribulations that life presents. Those who did it and lived the beach life at this time were so lucky to be able to do this in relatively small numbers.
This was before the surf culture explosion that literally saw millions heading for the water. It also predated the hippy scene, Vietnam and the whole Summer of Love movement. That arguably had something of a negative effect on the culture, and undoubtedly changed it for the worse, due to the introduction of drugs and the politicization of the culture, which took away a lot of the afore mentioned aloha spirit, not to mention innocence that had prevailed. Replacing it with a more hardened, less friendly vibe that has remained apparent within the surfing world for many years.
I own several books filled with fantastic photographs of the time, principally the works of Leroy Granis, Ron Stoner, who managed to capture the essence of the scene beautifully. I never tire of looking at these shots, in fact I use them as a source of inspiration, in that I try to shape my surfing experience through my own interpretation of the imagery.
I am sure that I am not alone in this, I would like to think that the re issues of the boards and clothes etc, that feature the graphics and logos from fifty or so years ago are not simply consumed by people who have no idea about their cultural significance. I love the fact that these things are available, for it not only gives me pangs of excitement when I see the likes of a Hobie, Bing, Velzy, or a holy grail Greg Noll board, or t shirt design for that matter, it also heartens me to think that there is still a vibrant surf scene that remains very much rooted in the past. A scene that has heaps of soul, is born out of a rich heritage which provides a really refreshing alternative to the corporate, aerial obsessed, throw away version of surfing that has emerged in recent years. In fact I would go as far as to say that the stoke that discovering of the historical elements of surf culture gave me, was more than partially responsible for my falling in love with surfing all over again.
At the risk of sounding slightly clichéd, the aloha spirit seemed to be very prevalent, and the surfing scene was built upon the notion of riding waves for the fun of it, above all else. Based on my understanding, which I think is an accurate, albeit slightly romanticized view point that has been gained from reading many books and magazine articles of the time. Surfing in the early 1960's was a lot more authentic than it became in latter years, for this was a time that was yet to see mass consumerism where (sub)cultures were taken from their rightful owners, re modeled, packaged and then sold to the masses as a lifestyle accessory. Riding waves was (and for me still is) something that is natural, free and serves as a means of escaping the daily trials and tribulations that life presents. Those who did it and lived the beach life at this time were so lucky to be able to do this in relatively small numbers.
This was before the surf culture explosion that literally saw millions heading for the water. It also predated the hippy scene, Vietnam and the whole Summer of Love movement. That arguably had something of a negative effect on the culture, and undoubtedly changed it for the worse, due to the introduction of drugs and the politicization of the culture, which took away a lot of the afore mentioned aloha spirit, not to mention innocence that had prevailed. Replacing it with a more hardened, less friendly vibe that has remained apparent within the surfing world for many years.
I own several books filled with fantastic photographs of the time, principally the works of Leroy Granis, Ron Stoner, who managed to capture the essence of the scene beautifully. I never tire of looking at these shots, in fact I use them as a source of inspiration, in that I try to shape my surfing experience through my own interpretation of the imagery.
I am sure that I am not alone in this, I would like to think that the re issues of the boards and clothes etc, that feature the graphics and logos from fifty or so years ago are not simply consumed by people who have no idea about their cultural significance. I love the fact that these things are available, for it not only gives me pangs of excitement when I see the likes of a Hobie, Bing, Velzy, or a holy grail Greg Noll board, or t shirt design for that matter, it also heartens me to think that there is still a vibrant surf scene that remains very much rooted in the past. A scene that has heaps of soul, is born out of a rich heritage which provides a really refreshing alternative to the corporate, aerial obsessed, throw away version of surfing that has emerged in recent years. In fact I would go as far as to say that the stoke that discovering of the historical elements of surf culture gave me, was more than partially responsible for my falling in love with surfing all over again.
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The Ranch. Photo: Ron Stoner/Surfing Magazine
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Skip Frye, The Ranch. Photo: Ron Stoner/Surfing Magazine
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| Skip Frye, styling. Photo: Stoner. |
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New boards, from a different time.
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